– Today Greg is going to show
us one of the hottest trends in nail today, the 3D French. – Whoa. – Greg, you think you can do this? – I’m gonna show you
guys how to crush this. – Ready to bust it out? Let’s go. (Habib laughs) (upbeat music) – I’m going to begin by
prepping the natural nail. We’re gonna push her cuticles back and we’re gonna remove
the shine from the surface of the natural nail with
a medium arbor band. (gentle music) Once I’m done removing shine from the surface of the natural nail, I’m going to use swipe to
cleanse the oils and contaminants and this is going to
prepare it for protein bond. I’m going to apply two
coats of protein bond to give us incredible adhesion. (gentle music) We’re gonna go ahead and place a form on Stephanie’s finger. So what I like to do
is pre pinch the form. What I’m gonna do is
I’m gonna open this up, and what we’re gonna do is
we’re going to get this tight, under the center of her finger, and that way when I
secure it to the sides, it’s going to be nice and straight. The first thing I’m going to do is I’m going to use Speed
Clear to build a nice, thin, flush-free edge. So what I’m gonna do is I’m
going to get a nice pearl what I like to do is dab off the excess, I’m going to set this right here and then I’m going to use
the body of the brush, not only press it flush
to her natural nail but I’m going to use the
body to stretch it out to the length desired. (gentle music) I’m going to form her nail into a nice even stiletto structure. (gentle music) What I’m going to do is use
Cover Pink to build the body and shape the smile line
with my brush initially. What I’m going to do is
get a nice even pearl. I’m gonna give that a couple of seconds and then what I’m going to do
is I’m going to set that right to the back end. I’m going to use the tip of
my brush just to walk it tight around the cuticle area, and then what we wanna be
able to do is use the wedge of the brush just to put
the smile line into shape. (gentle music) Once you have this into shape, you’re going to be able to file it into razor sharp perfection. What I wanna do is I’m gonna make sure the free edge is slightly pinched, we’re gonna take the form off, right? And then what I’m going
to do is I’m going to use my hand file just to shape
her smile line, razor sharp. (gentle music) I’m going to use my manicure
brush just to dust off the excess, and what I’m
going to do to ensure that the gel sticks is I’m
going to take a little bit of protein bond and I’m
just going to apply it throughout the free
edge and the smile line. I’m going to be using
Fizz, Sonic and Orbit to create the three dimensional, 3D look, and we’re gonna be using
clear sculpture to cap it and give it the strength as
well as the dimension needed to create this look. What I’m going to do is I’m
going to use a detailer, just to paint the edges and the nice thing about
this gel is the opacity. So what I’m gonna do is
I’m going to just run it, right along the edges, (gentle music) And we get it too high and what I’ll do is I’m just
going to paint it down towards the smile line. So as you can see I’m taking my brush, and what I’m doing is I’m
actually shaping it, right, close to the new smile that
I’m going to build, right, and so once we bring it down far enough and into the nice shape, just like this, as soon as
I’m done painting that out, we’re gonna go ahead and
get it inside the light for 30 seconds. I’m just gonna go back with the white and do a little bit of
detailing along the edges of my smile, just to make sure that I’ve got all my points covered. Alright. And we’re gonna get it
back inside the light for 30 more seconds. So what I wanna be able
to do is I wanna go ahead and squeeze this out and
I’m just gonna guide it up to the corners, right? And you’re gonna notice
how it flows nice and well, so as soon as I get it
right past the white, what I’m going to do is I’m just going to turn it upside down just
to get it to flow this way, and now I’m going to have
her go inside the light and again I’m going to have
her set it for 30 seconds, you have to remember
when you set the clear, it has a tendency to self level slightly. If I have her turn her hand over, it’ll let the gel fall quickly and it will give you the perfect
ledge to file into shape. One of the things I wanna
be able to point out is if the wall is not high enough,
you’re gonna have to come in with just a little bit more clear, just so that you have room to file. You have to remember
that you have to be able to build something high enough, that we’re gonna be able
to grab with your hand file and even enough so that
when you file out the shape, you’re not gonna again have
to add after you’re finished. Let’s just get this back inside the light. for 30 more seconds. Now what we wanna be able to do is since there is a dispersion layer, we’re gonna wanna wipe this with swipe, and then that way you’re
gonna be able to file it without any sticky dust
getting all over the place. So what I’m going to do is
I’m going to use my file and we’re trying to achieve
is again a smile that’s going to match the existing one that we built. Right, so what I’m doing is
I’m just filing down and around and this is going to give me
room to lay in the next color. (gentle music) The nice thing about using the gel is that it’s going to
cure really, really fast and it’s really easy to file on the shape. We’re gonna go ahead and
use swipe to dust off the excess, and then again, for insurance, I’m just gonna place a
little bit of protein bond at the edge so the gel is
going to stick really well to the acrylic, okay, I’m
just going to use a little bit of protein bond right here, and the next gel we’re
going to be using is Sonic. So what I wanna be able to
do again is I wanna be able to use this and I’m just gonna
run it along the smile line, and this is going to kind
of create the shadowed look. (gentle music) All right, just brushing
it down and through. The best part about this gel is that the opacity is quite intense, so I don’t need to do more than one coat. (gentle music) I’m gonna bring it all the way down, again, in the shape of a smile. I’m going to get this back
inside the light for 30 seconds. So again what I wanna be
able to do is I wanna be able to make sure that I cover
all of my edges with the gel, I’m just doing a little bit
of detail work right now. Just to make sure that my smile line is completely coated, right? And then once we’re done doing that, I’m just gonna get it
inside the light to set it. I’m now going to use clear
sculpture to cap Sonic. (gentle music) And then upside down. Okay, let me get this inside the light, I’m gonna cure that for 30 seconds. Again, what we’re going to
do is we’re going to wipe the dispersion layer away and this is going to
give us an opportunity to file this smile line
into perfect shape. (gentle music) So what I’m gonna do now is
I’m just going to dust off all of that excess. It’s going to leave me just enough room to place Orbit on the tip. I want you do the same thing, I’m just gonna take a
little bit of protein bond, I’m gonna run it along the edge. Now what I’m gonna do is
I’m going to take Orbit and I’m going to use this
just to get my edges tight, long smile line. (gentle music) Then I’m going to use this
to paint out rest of the tip. (gentle music) Once we have that on, let’s
get that back inside the light. Let’s go ahead and cap the
tip with clear sculpture. (gentle music) Let’s go ahead and get
that inside the light, and cure it out for a
final 60-second cure. As soon as the nail cures out, I’m going to wipe it with swipe. We’re going to file this into perfection and you’re gonna see what a 3D smile line, is going to look like. (upbeat music)