Hi, it’s Steve from PartSelect. Today we’re
going to show you how to change the hub washer on your washer and it’s a pretty easy job.
Let me show you how we do it. Now to do this repair we’re going to need a variety of tools.
We’ll start with a stiff putty knife, a quarter inch and 5/16th nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver,
a 7/16th wrench or socket and ratchet, a pair of needle nosed pliers, and a one and 11/16th
spanner wrench, and large hammer. Let’s get to it. Now before we begin this repair, we
are going to need to disconnect the power so pull the plug to the washer. We’re also
going to want to pull that washer far enough forward so we can remove the fill hoses from
the back so be sure to turn off the water supply before you remove the hoses. Once we’ve
done that, we’ll take our putty knife and we’re going to go in this gap between the
front panel and the top panel and you’ll locate a hidden spring in there. Simply depress it with the putty knife and
pull the front panel forward. And tilt the front panel forward and lift it off the two
tabs on the bottom that’s secured there. You can set that aside, next with our quarter
inch nut driver, we’re going to add two screws that secure the top panel to the cabinet.
Next we’re going to remove three screws that secure the console to the back panel. So using
our quarter inch nut driver, remove those three screws. Now with the screws removed
we can tilt that console forward and just slide it a bit to the right to disengage it
from the main top and then we’re going to lay that down. Next with our needle nosed
pliers, we’re going to pull the air dome tube off of the pressure switch and just gently
pull that hose to disengage it. Now we can pull that panel back out of the way. Just
hang from the back of the machine. Now I’m going to take the main top and just
lift it up, couple of inches. Next we’re going to raise the lid to its open position. Then
we’re going to depress the tab on the back of that lid switch towards the front and then
we can push the lid switch up through the opening and you can pull that switch towards
the back of the washer. Release it and drop it through the opening. Now close the lid,
then we can remove the main top. Next we can set that console on top of the washer again
and then we’re going to remove the quarter inch screws that secure that mounting bracket
to the washer frame. We’ll pull that off. Remove the back panel and just let it hang
a little back in the washer. Ok now take the ending caps, slide those out of the way, and
we can take the control panel and the mounting bracket and just let those completely out
of the way. Next we’re going to remove the agitator from the tub. So we’re just going
to reach in and grab the skirt of the agitator, the very bottom of it and give a sharp pull
upwards. Just pop that off of the dry block, remove it and we’ll set that aside. Our next
with our 7/16th wrench or socket and ratchet we’re going to remove the bolt on top of the
agitator dry block and we can pull that dry block off of the agitator shaft and we’ll
set that aside. Now next we’ll take our 5/16th nut driver,
we’re going to remove the screws that secure the suspension straps to the tub cover. Remove
this screw and then lift the strap off of the tub cover tab, we’ll inspect those straps
as well to make sure that they’re in good shape and if they show any signs of wear or
cracking, we’ll replace those at the same time. Next we’re going to release the tabs
that hold the tub cover to the outer tub so just press down slightly on the tub cover
and then pull the tabs away from the tub to release them. Then we can lift the tub cover
free. Set it aside. Now with our 1 and 11/16th spanner wrench, we’ll set that over the tub
nut and because it is a left hand thread, we’re going to turn it clockwise to loosen
it. So with a bare hammer, give it a good sharp rap. Completely remove the tub nut and
set that aside. We can now lift straight up on the interbasket and remove it from the
washer. So next we’ll take a flat blade screwdriver and gently spread that split ring just enough
so it’ll slide up off of the shaft. Next we’ll lift the hub washer off of the shaft. We’ll
install our new hub washer. Slide that down till it bottoms out on that shoulder. We’ll
discard our old split ring. Install a new one. Ok, we’ll just slide that down over that shaft
and if it’s a little tight just carefully spread it with a flat blade screw driver and
make sure it bottoms out on that washer. Next we’ll put the inter spin basket back into
position. So we’ll let that sit right on top of that split ring. Just rock it back and
forth till it centers itself. We’ll take our new tub nut and remembering that it is a left
hand thread, we’re going to turn it counter clockwise to tighten it. So just gently rock
that tub back and forth to tighten that knot. Now we’ll use our spanner wrench and we do
need to tighten that knot securely. Now installing the tub cover we want to first of all make
sure that the gasket is in good shape all the way around it. Then we’re going to locate
the bleach inlet in the left front corner. So tuck it down in, around the top of the
cabinet, making sure that we keep the tabs outside of the outer tub.Then we’ll use the
large forked locators to make sure that we have it properly in position. Now once we have it lined up, just press the
tabs on over the hooks on the outer tub. Making sure that you keep these things straight.
Keeping all of them engaged. Making sure all the tabs snap firmly into position and it’s
locked firmly on. Next we’ll install the tub dampening straps and with our 5/16th nut driver
we’ll replace the retaining screws. Now we’re ready to put the control panel mounting bracket
back into position. So we’ll just rotate that around. Sit it roughly into position, we’ll
lay the control panel across the front of the tub. We’ll need to install the end caps,
make sure the hooks fit into the rectangular opens of the cabinet. So we’ll put one screw
on either side just to hold that in position. Next we’ll rotate the back panel up and slide
that in the three tabs at the back. Then we’ll put the two screws into secure that. Make
sure that that back panel lines up with the end caps before we tighten the screws. We can now tilt the control panel back up
into position and we’ll leave it there until we put the main top on and when we put the
main top on we want to make sure we engage the slotted holes at the back of the main
top. With the two hooks in the top frame. Now next we’re going to raise the lid. Just
tilt up in front of that top panel enough that we can position the lid switch up through
the opening in the main top. Keeping the wire harness towards the front, we’ll hook it in
and press down on the back of it till it snaps into place and we’ll reach in between the
top in the frame. We’ll snap the wire harness retainer into the frame. Then we can lower
that main top into position. We can close the lid. Uh next we’re going to slide the
air dome tube along the left hand side of the cabinet up through the opening in the
frame, making sure we clear the tub dampening straps. We’re going to lay that console down
flat. Pull the air dome tube clear. Fully inserted onto the pressure switch. Now we’ll
line up the two tabs on the bottom of the control panel with the slotted openings in
the main top. We’ll slide that to the left. When it’s in position, then we can replace
the three quarter inch hex head screws across the back. Make sure that the end caps fit
around that back panel first. Uh next we’ll replace the two quarter inch hex head screws
that secure the main top to the cabinet. Next we will replace the front panel and we’ll
make sure that we line up those two slider rings on the bottom with the tabs on the base
frame and then as we tilt that panel forward into position, make sure that the little locating
pins line up with the openings in the front panel and just snap it into place. Now we can replace the dry block for the agitator.
It is splined on the inside. To fit the agitator shaft, just drop it down into position. We’ll
take our 7/16th bolt and then with a ratchet or wrench, we’ll tighten that securely. We’ll
have to hold the tub in position while we do that. Next we’ll take our agitator and
we’ll put it back in place and you will note that there are some plastic tabs that hold
that to the dry block. There are also four spline guides that line up with the exterior
of that dry block and those guys also correspond with the fins on the bottom of the agitator
to help you line up easier. So set it over the dry block. Slide it down into place and
give it a sharp push to lock it into position. We’re now ready to reconnect our fill hoses
and reconnect the power and repair is complete. Told you it was an easy job. Thanks for watching
and good luck with your repair.